SLIP

This page has a discussion on it from our Egroup so it runs like a conversation



The lady had put thinner in it and still was so thick, that when I poured it I couldn't even drain out the rest.

Rita,

I am not sure of the exact consistency slip should be but I have some Seeley’s that is pretty thick. I bought some aquarium hose at Wal-mart and use it to help drain the slip. I just blow into it and it pushes the slip out of the drainage hole. I don't know if it will work with dolls or not. I used distilled water to thin my Starlite slip with. I am pouring 4" dolls for our porcelain group.Is it better to use the slip thinner than to use distilled water? This is my first attempt at thinning slip and I only thin what I am going to use for one day as I am afraid I will put too much water in it.This pouring and firing is an art unto itself I am finding out.

A couple of years ago, I was so angry about the condition of my slip that I was ready to give the whole thing up I must have wasted gallons of slip, pouring and not being able to get it out of the mold, then having solid feet and hands, collapsed heads, sunken feet. I was told to use slip thinner, but if you add too much, it just gets thicker, and water, also, will make it get thicker when it stands. So you have to pour all at once, use the entire jug while you are at it. Porcelain slip does tend to thicken in humid weather. I finally just took the plunge and here's what I do.When I open a new jug, I use a plastic spoon and mix by raising the spoon up and down in the jug, like churning butter. This kind of breaks up the clots. Then I use my aquarium fish net, place it in a clean jug and strain the slip by pouring back and forth from one jug to the other until it flows smoothly and easily through the net. If the slip is in good condition, this is all I need to do. If poured slowly there are almost no air bubbles, but I smack on the sides of the jug just a little to make sure, then I pour. Next time I decide to pour, I just restrain the same way. In ideal weather, this is all it takes. But in humid weather, it's another story. In that case I add the slip thinner, an eye dropper at a time. I won't use more than two eyedroppers in a single gallon. If that doesn't do it I just add water (distilled) until it is the right consistency. And I don't worry
about water causing the porcelain the crack easier or shrink more, etc. I haven't noticed a difference in the quality of my product that can be blamed on the water. The main thing is don't be afraid to experiment, it is better than throwing the whole mess out. I think I must have thrown 2 or 3 gallon of Rich Brown from Bell's out before I had the nerve to add enough water. I recently poured a doll for a student in the Rich Brown which I have had since 1995. The doll looks great. I added water because the slip was thick when I got it and after sitting around for 5 years, you can imagine what it must have looked like, but it is working fine. Another thing. Those of you who do miniatures and doll house dolls, don't you have to thin the slip a lot to pour those tiny molds and be able to pour out through those tiny holes? I just remember I got all this advise that you can't do this and you can't do that. Things that meant I had to spend more money and waste my materials. Just remember if you are going to ruin something or throw it out anyway, you might as well experiment. You never know what you can do until you try.

I use distilled water as suggested by Seeley’s to the consistency of cream. I find that when it is real thick I use the slip whiz to mix it with, it thins down real good but you have to watch for bubbles. I know they say it doesn’t make bubbles but some slip will make bubbles. The thicker the slip the less time to leave in mold and I, too, use the little
air hose to blow the slip out with and especially the tiny molds. My way Inez in Texas

I use a syringe to pour my tiny molds so the slip has to be real thin but it has to set a little before pouring it. I don't lose very much in the pour room and I use slip that we have had for several years in different colors and it is all good . We had an instructor to tell use that the older the slip the prettier the bisque. Inez in Texas

I have some older Bell slip and one gallon poured fine, but the last two---THICK, THICK! (even after a little thinner and distilled water) I lost the whole doll and a gallon of slip. In order to save the day, we switched to my friend's Seeley slip and at least got the doll poured. Unless someone writes and puts up a big warning sign, I'll combine what's left of the two gallons and mix with water to see if
it can be saved. I used the jiffy mixer and strained many times, and
still thick! Sharon/WA

If the slip has an odor, it does not hurt one thing. Sometimes I leave the slip in the bucket overnight thinking I will cast tomorrow, do not get to it, and in a few days it will have an odor and a dark color. Stir it real well and cast it. Your porcelain is as good as if no odor or dark color. It does not hurt, but also I use only Gold Marque as it is the best on the market whether turned dark or just off the freight truck, and I would not use another brand again as I have tired them all. Gold Marque from Bell is the BEST. If you are interested in an essay about other slips, let me know and will tell you the results I have had, and also dolls sent to their labs and that is why I am a Bell Distributor, to get the best porcelain available, and have very few dolls not fired correctly. No crash and dent sales at Twila's since started with the Gold Marque. Try it, you will like it. dollightfully, Twila PS and I mail out a lot of sfgw dolls cast in Gold Marque, and no one has complained, so the seams do come off nicely and the colors great!

Well, Twila, or anyone else, while we're on the subject of slip. You don't have to convince me about Bell's Gold Marque. I love it! BUT, one of my doll friend's has had a bad experience with Bell slip--and my Bell most recently ;o) so she's not wanting to get Bell. She's had Seeley in the past since it mixes easily with water and has had easy access to it. We are on the West Coast and she's thinking of using Kai's slip, which is made in the West and therefore lower shipping fees, I think. Has anyone tried that? We had a sample and I made one
doll from it. It seemed fine to me, but if anyone else has any input I'd love to supply shop, but have to pay full price. She could give me a really good price on the Kai's. If you are using the Gold Marque Slip, which I prefer over the White Orchid from Bell's, add a small amount of slip thinner. If you continue adding a lot of thinner, it will clog up. so an IFDM instructor told me to add steamed, distilled water to get it to a creamy texture. I do this and the slip holds up real well. No problems and it strains and drains well and no effects from the added water, just have more slip! Twila

(Bell's White Orchid.) I may have added too much thinner (2 capfuls.) So at this point, are you saying I can keep adding distilled water to get it creamy? What do you mean by "steamed, distilled water." Do I need to heat it up?? Thanks for your input. Sharon/WA

The label on the plastic gal jar will say distilled or steamed distilled use the latter. I have never had a problem with Gold Marque, I have not used the Bell White Orchid since the Gold Marque came out. It, the white orchid, not as strong as the Gold Marque, still add the steamed distilled water to make a creamy texture. If you will write or call to Bell Ceramics about their slip, lab at Bell's and ask then what the problem is. They at Bells have been a good company to deal with and send me the number on the slip. I will tell them the problems, and they will send you information how to deal with it Your problems may be beyond what I can answer, but will help you get to thebottom of your porcelain slip problem, so look for a number and send it to me, the color of the slip, etc, or write directly to Bell Ceramics, tell them who you purchased the slip from, etc, and Bell ceramics will get to the bottom of your problem. Hope this is a help, Twila
I have found that Bell is so honest to deal with. When I had that problem, they replaced my slip with all new....I really have found dealing with them to be very nice people and they try to do you right also like that Gold Marque slip better than any I have ever used Why don't you tell the girls about that tip you told me....about paintingthe inside of the mold eye cavity with that white porcelain. Ladies.....this is a great tip if you want to paint eyes I'll let Twila tell it as am not sure I can tell you exactly like she
told me.
Have a good day, Hurricane

REB

I have used every brand Porcelain, I went the full route with all companies selling slip, and this is not fairy tale subject, I got my free gallon of Gold Marque when it was put on the market and I tried it every way, cleaned it every way, fired it in computer kilns, in kilns with kiln setters,. and cleaned it first stage, cleaned it in sfgw stage, and for the top results, Gold Marque was the strongest porcelain slip. I cannot say this about White Orchid slip from Bell as I only tested the Gold Marque. If your problem is with White Orchid from Bell, try to call them. Kais is a good porcelain slip also, and I have used Kais while I was testing other companies who made slip. If it is nearer you, and freight is cheaper for Kais, use it and try it. I have had Kais Slip, and it is not all bad or all good. With Kais, you might get some porcelain streaks that cannot be sanded out. But try straining the Kais twice or more to rid of the streaks, I did not try re- strain Kais. I do not want to keep restraining, My time is valuable, so therefore I know what Gold Marque will do. You just have to use the Porcelain that produces the best product. So if summed up. the best on the market, Gold Marque by Bell, Naturell by Seeley, and Baby's Breath by Kais. these are the only ones I have tested,
God Bless, Twila Stone

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